Adventures on Ecuadorian Trails
This year it was time to explore the trails in South America. Ecuador offers diverse landscape from Volcanic rugged terrain and alpine tundra to cloud forests and lush green jungles. With challenging terrain, diverse wildlife, and high altitude, Ecuador Andes offers variety of hikes. 
All the peaks with their height in feet. Image Credit-: Samir Palnitkar
The peaks which we planned were all 15,000 plus feet. Rucu Pichincha, Corazon, Iliniza Norte, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo! There were 16 people in our group.
Group Members-:
Meenal Patwardhan, Neel Patwardhan, Sagar Chivate, Samir Palnitkar, Anuradha Palnitkar, Sahil Palnitkar, Aditya Palnitkar, Jai Rawat, Arun Kumar, Priti Gairola, Srikanth Nandyala, Divya Yeraguntla, Jai Rawat, Gautam Vashist, Sushil Ranjan and Ashutosh Chauhan.
The ideal time to hike in Ecuador is during dry season, which is June to September. So our hiking dates were exactly during this time frame. Though as they say 'Mountain makes its own weather', we very much experienced the saying.
Hotel San Francisco de Quito, built in 1690
Hanging out near swings, Meenal, Neel and Priti
Playing Cards
Mother Mary Statue in the background
In front of the statue
With our guide Diego(Owner of the tour company)
Quito City is visible below
Blue skies and tall mountains
Trail weaving through mountain and climbing up
Just before the rock scrambling section.
Me and Neel at the Summit!
Downhill on Sandy Slopes
Lake Limpiopunga
Arun, Priti, Me and Sushil
Me and Sushil making our way up to the summit
At the top of Ruminahui
Cotopaxi surrounded by clouds in the background
Foggy, rain, sleet, and windy weather
In front of Jose Rivas Board
Icicles hanging from the roof and snow covered path to the refugio
Enjoying Hot Chocolate
Group Picture outside the refugio
Neel with Pasachoa in the background and our guide walking in the background
Grand Views
Caracara, it was a beautiful bird
Crossaint and Cappucino
Stunning Lake Quilotoa
Me and Neel by the lake
Neel with baby alpaca
The swinging bridge at Pailon De Diablo Waterfalls
Church Courtyard at Banos
All set to hike our last hike on this trek.
At the summit
Outside the refuge with Quito City in the background
A walk on the streets of Quito with a guide, it concluded with nice chocolate tasting!
Adios Ecuador 💛
We were unable to summit Iliniza Norte, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo because of bad weather. We did few other peaks instead but we were a little disappointed that we couldn't do the peaks which we had planned.
My son Neel has been joining me on these adventures for last couple of years, this was his third trek with me.
This time in summer, just four weeks before the start of this trek Neel broke his right wrist. Now with his hand in cast, we were little worried about him participating on this adventure as this was a semi technical trek, which means we were going to use ropes, helmets, ice axe and harness. After consulting with his doctor and the owner of our tour operating company we decided he can join us.
One day before our departure his cast came off and doctor gave him a hard brace which made his hand movement easier. After that, he was able to move his fingers freely. The wrist was almost but not completely healed so I was little bit anxious this time.
I would like to add that he did amazingly good with his not so fully healed wrist on this difficult rugged terrain!
After all the uncertainty we all were set to board the plane and embark on this exciting adventure in Ecuador!
Since it was high altitude trek we decided to arrive in Ecuador 3 days prior to the start of the trek.
Neel, Sagar, Anu, Samir and I flew on June 25th and landed in Quito on June 26th very early morning at 2:45 AM. Couple of other members from our team reached at same time. We had already booked a taxi from airport to our hotel. Our hotel was located in the historic center, it was housed in historic colonial building which was old but charming.
When we arrived it was quite late so after checking in we went to our room and slept. Woke up at 8 Am and went straight for breakfast, it was a simple breakfast of fresh fruits, eggs, bread, coffee, and juice.
After breakfast we went back to our rooms to get ready and head out again, plan was to get lunch done and head to TeleferiQo to acclimatize. We found a nice rooftop restaurant with vegetarian options.
TeleferiQo at Quito
After lunch we took teleferiQo to Pichincha Volcano to acclimatize. TeleferiQo is a Gondola ride which takes you up from 10,226 ft to 12,943 ft from where you get a nice panaromic view of the city and mountains. There's a nice coffe shop up there and nice place to hang out and get acclimatize.
A short hike takes you up to the swing area, a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. The views are breathtaking from here and there are plenty of picture perfect opportunities. It was cold and windy, perfect for us to get used to these kind of conditions for upcoming days.
Neel and Anu on the swings
We spent good 2-3 hours at the top and took last cable car back down. Went to dinner after that at a nice restaurant, it was nice chatting with everyone.
Next day me and Neel went out in the city for an hour just to roam around. Today we were going to go up again at Pichincha Volcano by TeleferiQo to acclimatize. Some of the team members went on free walking tour in the city and were going to join us at the top later. Me, Neel, Anu, Samir, and Sagar picked up Pizza for everyone for lunch and went up to TeleferiQo. We ate lunch and played cards. After some time, rest of the team members came and some of them went to the swings again. The rest of us stayed at the coffee shop.
Day 2 was spent again in similar fashion like day 1 for acclimatization. Took the last TeleferiQo down and went straight to dinner at Indian restaurant called Sher e Punjab.
Our hotel had a rooftop, views from there are amazing, especially during night time.
First two days me and Neel couldn't sleep well maybe because of altitude, as Quito is at higher elevation of 9,350 feet. We were hoping this phase of sleepless nights will pass soon before our hike starts.
On our third day in Quito some of us went to visit Intinan Museum in Quito where they have line marker of Equator line along with actual exhibits which focus on local tribes in Ecuador. Ticket price includes English speaking guide who will give you tour of the whole museum.
After museum we also visited the Statue of Virgin Mary which is located on top of El Penecillo hill.
That evening our guide came to meet us at our hotel to give us the overview of our trek.
After having dinner we all went to our room to get ready for our first peak, 'Rucu Pichincha'. Backpacks were packed, water was filled, and our luggage was packed and ready. We were going to Machachi after our hike next morning to stay at Diego's hostel for next two weeks.
Couldn't sleep well again that night, partly because of excitement and partly because of altitude.
Day 1-: June 29 (Summit Rucu Pichincha- 15,413 ft)
Total Climb: ~2,000ft
Climbing time: 5hrs
Climbing time: 5hrs
We started our day with breakfast and got ready to head out for our hike. We left our hotel around 8:30 AM and headed to TeleferiQo from where our hike to Rucu Pichincha was starting. I was not used to starting hikes this late. By the time we reached there and took TeleferiQo to the top and started the hike, it was already 9:30.
Rucu Pichincha is a popular peak for acclimatization purpose hence the trail was quite crowded. Also, it being a Sunday, lots of locals were also climbing. Weather was perfect, sunny and dry so got to witness some amazing views while climbing.
We continued walking on long ridge with Andean grass on both sides of the trail to the base of narrow and steeper ridge for about two plus hours.
Finally, we reached the base area of rock scrambling, and took a break. I was feeling little bit nauseous so couldn't eat much.
The section ahead was very rocky and all rock scrambling until the summit! The terrain was rugged, so we had to take support of guides at some sections where there were dramatic drops and steep cliffs under our feet.
Reached the summit after few hours of scrambling, weather had turned all foggy at the top.
Reaching the summit always make you feel ecstatic and tired, but you also feel accomplished!
Climb down was not an easy feat. There was a sandy section on the trail where we had to slide on our feet, which was quite challenging.
When we reached the TeleferiQo Cafe, some of the team members who had already reached were enjoying hot chocolate and coffee. Some of us took cable car and left right away. There was a long line for cable car as it was Sunday. I was feeling very nauseous.
We left Quito and were driving to Machachi, where we were going to stay for next couple of weeks. It was very late by the time we reached Machachi, so our tour operator had ordered in rice and lentils for dinner. I couldn't eat much. We ate and went to our rooms as next day we had another summit to accomplish.
Day2-: June 30th(Rumiñahui -15,489ft)
We got ready on Monday morning and headed towards Cotopaxi National park where Corazon was located. As we were driving, the weather looked pretty gloomy and surely it started raining. We were all praying that it wouldn't rain so we could do this summit but weather was not in our favor. It was raining heavily when we reached the trailhead and our hopes to climb corazon were soon demolished.
Samir then asked our guide if we can do some other peak in the park. We then decided to climb Rumiñahui. Something is better than nothing. Rumiñahui's summit height was somewhat similar to Rucu Pichincha. Though it was not pouring there, weather was still unpredictable and cloudy.
Our hike started at Lake Limpiopungo, a beautiful place. Lake was very serene looking.
The hike started around the lake, where we started climbing slowly through Andean grass which often poked and brushed our whole body as we were climbing. The trail was slowly getting steeper, so we took very few pictures along the way.
The weather was still very cloudy and fog was settling in slowly. The trail become super rocky towards the end, it was very demanding but slowly and steadily we were making progress. Now that I am writing this blog I wish I had taken more pictures of this day, but I was quite miserable to take my phone out from my pocket to take pictures.
As we were reaching towards the final climb, I met some of the team members who were done and climbing down. Thanks to Samir for the picture below.
For the last section we had to muster ourselves up to scramble the rocks on all fours to reach the top. By the time we reached the summit, it was completely foggy and there was barely any space to sit there. We managed to sit in a small space for sometime and take a picture. My hands were freezing cold.
Again climb down was not easy, scrambling on rocks was a must to go down. We had to go on all fours again to climb down the rocky section.
After rocky section the downhill seemed pleasant as weather started to clear up and we could actually enjoy some views. The vast landscape of Cotopaxi was now clearly visible. It was invigorating to see Cotopaxi!
The views were quite enjoyable!
The views were quite enjoyable! 
The first view of Cotopaxi left me in awe, it was right there in front of us in full glory. It looked simply amazing in the blue sky.
We reached the parking lot feeling tired but accomplished. Two down and four more to go! We ordered Pizza that day for dinner.
Day 3 & Day 4-: Illiniza Norte(Hike to Nuevos Horizonte Hut, 15,583 ft and Summit to Illiniza Norte 16,818 ft next day)
Day three started with gloomy weather again. It was freezing cold at the trail head. We had hired mules to carry our overnight stuff in duffle bags. The day didn't start good for me, I was feeling very tired and it was showing in my pace. I was walking very slow and started having trouble with nausea and body ache. After climbing for couple of hours I realised I cannot move further and made the decision to head back down.
I was dropped back by taxi to our hotel in Machachi. I had bodyache and felt feverish, slept through the night.
In the mean time rest of the group reached the base camp at Nuevos Horizonte Hut expecting to climb the summit next morning. But the next day was a complete whiteout and they couldn't summit Illiniza Norte. Everyone was sad as another planned summit was missed.
The whole team headed back down and came to hotel around noon.
Day 5-: Rest Day
Today was the day to rest and recover for next planned hike to Refugio Jose Rivas and Cotopaxi summit. I was feeling fresh after a good nights sleep and recovery.
Some of the team members decided to go to refugio on rest day to get extra day for acclimatization and be prepared for Cotopaxi summit.
Our tour operator suggested we rather take a rest day than straining ourselves by staying an extra day at the refuge at high altitude.
Samir, Anu, Jai, Aditya, Sri and Divya were quite determined to go, so everything was arranged for them and they all left before noon to head to the refugio.
Rest of us relaxed at the hotel and tried all the gear needed for cotopaxi summit, i.e crampons, mountain boots, harness, helmet etc.
In the evening we packed our bags with everything needed including all the gear. Our backpacks were very heavy with all the equipments.
Our loaded packs, though ice axe is missing in this picture.
Day 6 & 7-: Cotopaxi Refuge also known as Refugio Jose Rivas(15,958ft)
After having breakfast, we got ready and did the final check on our backpacks and made sure we had everything needed for refuge and cotopaxi summit.
We left hotel around 11 AM, grabbed a quick lunch and headed to Cotopaxi National Park. After one hour and fifteen minute drive we reached the parking lot of Jose Rivas at 15,100 feet.
The drive was pretty scenic once we entered cotopaxi national park. There was snow on the and at the parking lot. In some sections trail was covered in snow as well.
With windy and wet conditions we started the 900ft climb to the refuge with heavy backpacks.
Wind was howling, our jackets were all crusty with ice, and it was difficult to walk. The weather was testing our endurance and how much we can push our body. Finally after arduous climb we reached the refugio.
The entrance to the refugio was covered in snow.
Enjoyed a nice cup of hot chocolate after going inside.
It was a cozy refugio with all the basic necessities.
After resting for some time we ventured outside in the frozen world to use restroom and take some pictures.
Restrooms inside the refugio are open from 6 PM to 6 AM. Flush didn't work inside, a drum of water was kept to flush the toilet which was also frozen. There was snow around the sink area.
Dinner was served early at 6 because summit to cotopaxi starts as early as 10 PM.
The night was sleepless, howling wind kept us awake. I couldn't sleep a wink, getting out of bed to go use restroom was an ordeal.
Me and Sushil were going to leave for summit at 10 PM but guides never came to wake us up and we assumed we wouldn't be able to summit because of gusty 70 miles per hour winds. Around 7 we all had breakfast and started the descent to the parking lot.
Climb down was very difficult because of the wind, after reaching down we tried to take pictures but it was very hard to balance yourself. We left with heavy heart and returned to Machachi at our hotel.
Day 8-: Rest Day
Since it was a rest day we had plenty of time, so Divya and Sri from our group came up with the idea to cook in hotel's kitchen. We had maxed out of options for good vegetarian food in small town of Machachi so home cooked meal sounded appealing.
We shopped for veggies and spices in Machachi market which was very crowded.
The market looked colorful and was stocked with fresh fruits and veggies.
Market in Machachi
There was also some clebratory parade that day where people were dancing wearing traditional colorful clothes.
The Parade, Picture Credit-: Jai Rawat
After grocery shopping we went to our hotel and started the fun process of preparing food. Everyone helped to cut vegetables and fresh fruits, and cook.
Home cooked meal tasted really good after eating same restaurant food everyday.
Day 9 was suppose to be Cayambe summit but again the weather was bad at cayambe refuge and on the summit. Everyone was getting frustrated that nothing was going according to the plan and we were missing to hike all these summits. Priti and Sagar decided to leave the trek in the middle and save their PTO. Priti left that night and next morning Aditya and Sagar left to head back home. Except me and Neel all others decided to give Cotopaxi another shot. By this time I had lost interest in summiting cotopaxi as there was no gurantee of cotopaxi summit due to weather. So me and Neel decided to skip the second attemtp and do another day hike to Pasochoa Mountain.
Day 9-: Pasochoa Summit(13,780 ft)
Pasochoa is another extinct volcano located in Ecuadorian Andes. Pasochoa has a huge cloud forest inside the extinct volcanic crater. The summit is almost at 14,000 feet.
Me and Neel left with one guide to Pasochoa after breakfast. It was an hour drive from Machachi to the parking lot. After reaching the parking lot, we realized that it is not a very common hike among tourists so there was absolutely no one on the trail.
Initially our tour operator had suggested that we don't need a guide to climb pasochoa as the trail is very easy but we pursuaded him to give us one guide. We were glad that we had a guide with us. As the trail was not marked we simply followed the guide.
Initial trail started on farm land. There were amazing views behind us while we were climbing.
The trail took us through Andean paramos grass and climbed slowly up, we could see Pasochoa up ahead, though it seemed close it was quite far.
The views behind us were amazingly beautiful so we were taking our time while climbing and admiring the beauty around us.
After couple of hours we took a quick break for snack and started climbing again, the trail was very steep, some spots you had to take big step and climb up. Then came a small rock scrambling section but it was not that bad, just some rocky section on trail as we were nearing the summit.
Just as we reached the top, we were in awe of the views. There was 360 degree view from the summit. The cloud forest looked amazing from the top, we could see the vast green valley below.
The best part was, weather was clear, so the views were totally breathtaking and since we were the only ones at the summit, we had all the space for ourselves.
Me and Neel at the summit of Pasochoa
We were just soaking in all the views around us!
Cloud Forest
While we were enjoying the view a bird came and sat really close to us. Our guide told us the name of the bird 'Caracara'. The bird was not afraid, and was sitting right next to us.
After spending thirty minutes we started our descend. The descent was very scenic as we were continuously able to see the views that we missed while climbing up.
We saw cooled lava rocks on our way down.
Cooled lava formed into solid rock
As we reached the parking lot, it had gotten very hot. After an hour of drive we were back at the hotel. Tonight it was just me and Neel at the hotel as rest of the group were going to try to summit Cotopaxi that night. Since it was just both of us we went out for early dinner as we didn't want to be out late in the night. Had a nice dinner at nearby restaurant and came back to our hotel, played cards and went to sleep.
Day 10-: Rest Day
Since it was a rest day we woke up little late. We were curious to know if rest of the team was able to summit cotopaxi that night. I messaged our tour operator and he said the group had started at midnight but he haven't heard any update from the guides who were with them.
We were hopeful that if they were able to start the hike they will surely summit cotopaxi!
There was not much to do but wait for their summit news. Me and Neel stepped out for breakfast as we were bored of eating same thing for breakfast at our hotel. We went to a nice coffee shop and had freshly baked crossaint with a nice cuppa of cappucino!
By the time we came back, we saw our guides and their cars parked outsie our hotel. We found out from them that our group couldn't summit cotopaxi as the weather took a bad turn and they all had to turn back :( Everyone were really upset, as yet again the attempt to climb cotopaxi failed.
That evening everyone was glum because of the failed attempt. We all decided that there was no point in doing our last and Ecuador's highest peak 'Chimborazo'.
We started to look at options for other smaller peaks. As we were looking, we came across Lake Quilotoa hike. We decided to do lake quilotoa hike the next day.
Day 11-: Lake Quilotoa
Situated at 13,000 ft this stunning lake was formed by collapse of a volcano. The lake was beautiful aquamarine with a tinge of blue color. The surrounding landscape was utterly beautiful. This lake is situated in a small town of Quilotoa, which is a developing tourist town as the lake is gaining popularity among tourists and hikers alike. e took lots of pictures before starting the hike down to the lake.
The descend was steep through sandy path from the rim, and we soon realized that ascent was going to be quite challenging. We were greeted by plenty of wildflowers on our way down.
Throughout our descend we saw people huffing and puffing while climbing back up the trail. Some people were riding horses on their way back. As we reached down the lake felt surreal, the turquoise water, surrounded by tall mountain brought some calmness and satisfaction.
Spent about 30-40 minutes by the lake, taking in the views and eating some snacks.
Started the ascent, which was not a easy feat. It was 1,358 feet elevation gain in just 1.80 miles. Taking small breaks in between we finished our hike and oh boy even after so many days of climbing mountains in ecuador it still made us breathless! But all the tiredness was gone as we were greeted by cute lamas and alpacas. Neel took some pictures with cute baby alpaca.
The hike was challenging but rewarding, a day well spent!
Day 12-: Sightseeing at Banos, a tourist city in Ecuador
After lake quilotoa hike most of the people from our group were gone. Only Samir, Anu, myself, Neel, Arun and Sushil were the last ones left. Except me and Neel others went to Corazon, a peak which we had missed on our second day because of weather. Corazon was a technical climb with last part consisting of two hours of rock scrambling on the ridge.
Neel's wrist was bothering him a little so we decided to skip Corazon. Me and Neel decided to do a little tourism in Banos.
We booked a taxi with a driver and went to see Banos. It actually felt really good to do a little tourism after all the uncertainty of hikes. Some pictures from our Banos trip. Banos was a beautiful quaint touristy town. It was raining, and this mountain town looked amazing in rain!
Pailon De Diablo
Tree House at Banos
Colorful town of Banos
Cathedral at Banos
Day 13-: Guagua Pichincha(15,700 ft elevation)
Guagua Pichincha is one of the two major Pichincha volcanos. The pichincha volcanos are located very close to Quito and are considered best hikes to acclimatize who are aiming to climb high mountains of Ecuador like Chimborazo or Cotopaxi. Guagua meaning 'baby' pichincha is considered as a sibling to Rucu Pichincha.
The summit to guagua pichincha starts at the base of its refuge. We started our hike little bit before the refuge just to get enough mileage on our legs. It is quite a short hike.
It started with sunny but windy condition. The trail was gradual until refuge with beautiful views surrounding us. The wind became more prominent at the refuge which was now somewhat covered in clouds.
Went inside the refuge and had hot tea and rested for 5 minutes before pushing for summit. The trail from refuge got more rugged with more rocks and ridge walk with sudden drops on either side. The wind had picked up and fog was settling in so there was not much visibility either. Slowly and steadily battling the wind and freezing temperatures we reached the top, there was no visibility as fog was completely settled at the summit. Quickly took a picture and started making our way down.
Coming down was quicker as the guide brought me down on a different path. We just sled down(like skiing) the gravely part of mountain. We were back down at the refuge in just fifteen minutes where we had hot cup of tea, took more pictures outside the refuge and boarded our vehicles and returned back to our hotel in Quito.
Last Day-:
Our flight was in the evening so me and Neel took a walking tour of Quito City in the morning. Some pictures from that tour.
After the tour we ate quick lunch and headed for airport. The setting sun made the sky look orange to fiery red with a mixed of clouds in between. It was beautiful, a perfect end to an amazing experience!
Overall Summary
Ecuador is a wonderful country, great for hikers and tourists alike. This time we got to experience both hiking and tourism.
Weather can change drastically, the start of the hike can be sunny and warm but at the top it can get windy, rainy, and foggy.
Though everything didn't go as planned, overall I would call it a success. Hurdles come, you just have to accept it and move on because some things are beyond your control, in our case it was weather.
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